WHEN SCIENCE MEETS NATURE
Or (hydrolysed hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronic acid), a popular cosmetic ingredient, comes in many different forms.
First, it occurs naturally in your body. Yes, you have your own hyaluronic acid factory pumping through your body and instantly replenishing your cells.
Then there are synthesized hyaluronic acid gels like Juvéderm® and Restylane® (only by cosmetic surgeons) that are used for injectable fillers. Finally, there are the two versions most commonly used in cosmetic products, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate, which are rather confusing in the beauty industry. Which one is actually better for your skin? Cosmetic chemists and dermatologists say it’s a kind of draw.
That conclusion is certainly disappointingly vague. But the reasons for this – how different shapes come about, the pros and cons of each shape that works best for certain skin types – are quite intriguing. However, before you can understand the intricacies, we need to start with the basics.
Although hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the human body, it is not necessarily considered a “natural” ingredient in skincare, as HA (hyaluronic acid) must undergo a chemical treatment to be effective when applied topically (on the skin). HA is a high-molecular substance and therefore cannot penetrate the skin. One way to minimize the HA molecule is to hydrolyse it and break it down through a chemical reaction with water. This leads to the hydrolysed hyaluronic acid commonly found in serums and moisturizers. This type of HA acts on the skin’s surface, attracting and retaining significant amounts of water to keep the skin hydrated. It is especially useful in the winter months when skin is naturally drier, as long as you seal it well with an occlusive agent (lipid film layer = fat layer).
The more common way to convert pure hyaluronic acid into a beneficial agent is to extract the sodium salt to get sodium hyaluronate. Sodium hyaluronate is a derivative of HA (specifically the salt form of HA). Sodium hyaluronate has a low to very low molecular weight than traditional HA and hydrolysed HA, making it easier to absorb into the pores. Therefore, it has the ability to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin, but also to attract and binds water. This effect can plump up the skin, making wrinkles less visible and skin looking younger.
We have processed the hyaluronic acids in 3 or 4 different sizes/shapes in the following products;
Hyaluron Tonic – Enzyme Peel & Tonic – Enzyme Peel Mask – SOS Silver Mask – DNA Protection Mask – Red Control Serum – VIP C Serum – Retinol Night Serum – Biomè Bright Eye Serum – 3D Eye & Lip Cream – 24H Hydro Boost Cream – Biomè MultiActive Fluid – Lift Repair Cream – VasoActive OPC Cream – VIP Cream and Hydro Boost Liquid